La Rive Droite - A Star in Alencon

Just a few weeks ago I was in sunny Marrakech, which Kent and I discovered for the first time when we attended Charles-Henry and Segolene’s wedding there in February of 1998. And, just last Sunday for Easter, we had the pleasure of having lunch at their new restaurant, La Rive Droite, in Alencon. The connection  between Marrakech and La Rive Droite was striking - the brilliant blue skies, delicious food, and the décor as well, as their bar is decorated with many treasures and colors from Morocco.

Charles-Henry, Segolene and their three young sons are like family and it is always a pleasure to participate in their enterprises and adventures. Their Chateau Hotel, the Chateau de Saint Paterne has been the scene of many wonderful Les Liaisons Delicieuse’s culinary adventures. I have slept in every one of their exquisite guest rooms, including one with a remarkable painted ceiling where King Henry IV spent time with one of his mistresses! Because of Charles-Henry, I began running culinary tours with him beginning in Morocco in 2001 and in Vietnam in 2006.

But on to their newest enterprise, La Rive Droite. They bought the old lace museum on the Sarthe river in the old part of town several years ago.

La Rive Droite situated on the Sarthe River

It had been abandoned and needed a complete rehabilitation which they did with their usual flair. There are four different dining areas on the main floor each decorated differently and very beautifully. My favorites are the library which is very cozy in the wintertime filled with books and treasured photographs, and the Moroccan room.

La Rive Droite's moroccan room

In the spring sunshine however, the terrace is where you want to be. Four of us enjoyed our Easter lunch on a day as warm and sunny as Marrakech which was really delightful.

For years at the Chateau de Saint Paterne, Charles-Henry was the cook for the dinners served to guests in their dining room. But, with the opening of La Rive Droite right before Christmas, he hired a chef and graduated to manager of both kitchens he told me gleefully!

All four of us began our lunch with a Tourte de carottes en robe de chou which is one of Charles-Henry’s signature dishes, although this time prepared by chef Laurent. The carrots which are still crunchy are wrapped in savoy cabbage leaves and dressed with a sauce of crème fraiche and chives.

Tourte de carottes en robe de chou

The textures and flavors worked amazingly well together. We enjoyed a very pleasant Domaine Deshenry Cotes de Thongue 2010 white wine with our starters.

Two of us continued with the souris d’agneau which had been cooked with a little raspberry vinegar. The lamb fell easily off the bone and was incredibly succulent. The touch of raspberry was perfect. The second main course we ordered was magret de canard au miel. The duck was pink, tender and very tasty, complimented by a sweet and sour sauce of honey and balsamic vinegar. Both dishes were served with a medley of spring vegetables.

Souris d'agneau

Our wine for this course was a Domaine Cavalier du Val de Montferrand 2011 which was full bodied with a slight taste of berries.

We shared two desserts, a rich delicious Tarte Tatin and handmade ice cream with a touch of calvados, and a fondant au chocolat which was properly warm and runny with hints of caramel and butter.

Tarte tartin

Both desserts were wonderful. We left for a walk along the river completely satisfied. You should really consider a weekend at St. Paterne with a lunch at La Rive Droite but it is possible to take the train for the day and have a marvelous lunch and be back in Paris for dinner.

This week's recipe is for our starter:

Tourte de Carottes en Robe de Chou (Carrot Tart Baked in Cabbage Leaves)
Recipe from Charles-Henri de Valbray, Château-Hotel Saint-Paterne
Serves 8

Ingredients for the Tart

8 large leaves of Savoy cabbage

6 large carrots
¼ head cabbage
1 turnip, if desired
3 onions,
2 cloves garlic
1 bunch parsley
4 leeks, white only
1 ½ sticks of butter
5 eggs
Pinch of cayenne pepper
Salt and pepper
Toasted pine nuts
 
Ingredients for the Sauce
1 cup cream
3 tsp minced chives
Salt and pepper
2 tbsp butter

Wash the cabbage leaves and blanch for 3 minutes in boiling salted water. 

Plunge in cold water, remove and dry between paper towels or tea towels.
Remove large ribs.
Wash cabbage, leeks and peel turnip and carrots.  Grate cabbage, turnip, and carrots; slice leeks finely.  Chop onion, garlic and parsley.
Melt 7 tbsp butter in a large saucepan, add grated cabbage, leeks, and onions and sauté gently 5 minutes.  Add carrots, garlic and parsley.
Cook vegetables together for 15 minutes over low heat, stirring from time to time.  Add the cayenne, salt and pepper.  Remove from heat and let cool.  Beat eggs and fold into vegetable mixture, mixing well.
Butter a deep straight-sided pie or cake pan or earthenware casserole with half the remaining butter.  Line the pan with the cabbage leaves, keeping one leaf aside.  Let the leaves extend over the edges of the pan.
Pour the vegetable and egg mixture into the pan.  Fold the leaves over the mixture and top with the remaining leaf.  Dot with remaining butter.  Cover with aluminum foil and bake for 30-40 minutes at 350F.
While tart is baking, prepare the sauce.  Melt butter in cream over low heat.  Add chives, salt and pepper, mix well, and pour in a sauce boat.
Unmold tart on a large round serving place, sprinkle with pine nuts, and serve with sauce.