Liberté, Egalité, Fraternité!

We were enjoying a wine tasting and dinner last Friday night in Paris when, all of a sudden, there were sirens everywhere on the street.  We turned on the internet and were shocked to learn that there had been multiple terrorist attacks at at least 6 different locations in Paris with more than 100 dead and more than 300 injured.  ISIS claimed responsibility for murdering, in cold blood, mainly young people out and about on a Friday evening, which is horrific beyond belief.

Paris had a curfew over the weekend with all the museums and public buildings closed and dark but, nonetheless, people gathered in the square at Republique to honor the dead and wounded with flowers and candles.

We learned that Arnaud Meersseman, the son of a man we know on Martha's Vineyard, was shot at the concert hall, Bataclan, and is currently in a coma.  So, we decided to light a candle for him on Sunday.

There was a real spirit of fraternité around the square with many signs reading. "meme pas peur" (not afraid) and "we must overcome" etc.

On Monday night the Eiffel Tower & Palais-Royal were ablaze again with the Blue, White & Red of the French Flag!

And, while people continue to be cautious and careful, Paris, once again the city of light, will carry on with resilience.

President Hollande has said..

"We will not put life & culture on hold!"

AND, Anne Hidalgo, Mayor of Paris, said ...

"We are standing firm AND will remain ourselves!"

A Voyage in the Vendée at the Château de la Bijoire

Recently I had the pleasure of spending several days in La Vendée (a department in west-central France, on the Atlantic Ocean) with our dear friends, Catherine and Hugues de Bretagne.  I stayed at the Château de la Bijoire which has been in Hugues' family since it was built in the mid-19th century.

For the past 2 years Hugues de Bretagne, a prominent Parisian architect, has been meticulously restoring his family Château which now has 12 bedrooms each with a new "American bathroom".

The entrance hall welcomes you into the dining room with seats 18 people, off of a new modern kitchen, perfect for preparing festive meals or having cooking classes.  The smaller of the two drawing rooms has some magnificent tapestries.  And, there is now also a swimming pool and an art studio, where Catherine de Bretagne, a Parisian painter and teacher from Les Beaux Arts, gives weeklong painting classes.

You may wonder why I am giving you so much information about the Château de la Bijoire?  It is because they are now planning to rent their château by the week to carefully selected families and friends for birthdays, anniversaries, and family reunions.  And I have offered to help them find some American families who might want to celebrate together in France.













The region of La Vendée is only several hours from Paris by train and there is a great deal to do in the area.  The Atlantic Ocean is a mere 15 minutes away.  The charming port of Les Sables d'Olenne has  a wonderful spa and many fabulous restaurants including Fleurs de Thym, which you can read about in my previous blog.  There is a terrific winery, J. Mourat, nearby and private castles which can be visited.  Cooking, art, & flower arranging classes can be organized at Château de la Bijoire.  And, if you want a true "French" vacation, a private chef can prepare all of your meals at "home".

So let me know if I can help you plan the family party of your lifetime!

Les Fleurs de Thym ( flowers of thyme)

I recently had a fabulous lunch at a portside restaurant in Les Sables-d'Olonne.  Fleurs de Thym, www.fleursdethym.fr .  The port is on the Atlantic ocean in La Vendée, not far from La Rochelle.

The cuisine is delicious, inventive and VERY reasonable.  There are 3 menus(ranging from 16-28 euros), each with an appetizer, main course & dessert.

Every dish was superb and beautifully presented.  But, the Filet de Thon mi-cut, sauce bourride au safron(lightly cooked tuna with a saffron bourride sauce) and the Gâteau Pistache(pistachio cake) with raspberry sauce were truly outstanding!

It's a day trip from Paris so go for lunch!

Beautiful, Bountiful Bruges

Last week we visited Bruges which is truly a Belgian bijou (jewel)!  Bruges is an unspoiled medieval town which in it's heyday, between the 14th & 16th centuries, was one of the most sophisticated, wealthy, and beautiful cities in Europe.  We explored every corner on foot, in a horse drawn carriage and by boat on the canal.

We stayed in the center of town at the Speelmansrei, Bed & Breakfast which is another gem that I would highly recommend.  It is a 15th century house which was recently renovated by the owners.  They rent out only 2 lovely rooms, both with comfortable beds and modern bathrooms and views of their beautiful garden on the canal.  And the breakfasts were generous and delicious!

Speaking of food, we enjoyed the bountiful, seasonal specialities of Belgium at a number different restaurants, (including Den Dyver & Refter), but the highlight was a superb meal at the Michelin starred restaurant, Rock Fort where we feasted on langoustine with a mushroom foam and wild pheasant with cabbage & endive.  If you haven't been to Bruges, I urge you to go!









Please follow us on instagram!

Pierre Cardin in Paris

Less than 1 year ago, Italian born designer, Pierre Cardin, at the age of 92 opened his new museum in Paris' Marais neighborhood in a former tie factory.  The museum is named, Passé-Présent-Futur (Past-Present-Future) and offers a comprehensive look at the designer's lengthy and sometimes shocking career.

We had a private tour of the museum with Renée Taponier, who has been Pierre's personal assistant for more than 50 years and saw 200 of Cardin's most memorable haute-couture collections including a metallic mini-dress and elegantly draped evening wear.  The metallic mini-dress was recreated by Cardin(something he almost never does) and worn at Obama's 1st Inaugural Ball!

Amazing Athens

We returned recently from Athens, Greece where we were amazed by the resilience of the people and the beauty of the monuments, especially the Acropolis and the Parthenon.

 We also spent a day visiting the Peloponnese peninsula and the fabulous archaeological site of Mycenae, with the intact tomb of Agamemnon which had the most incredibly beautiful gold jewelry and cups dating from 1550-1500 B.C.

And as you saw on Instagram, the food at the restaurant, Athiri, in Athens was outstanding, including the best octopus I have ever had with sundried tomatoes & capers.  For desert I couldn't resist the 3 sublime creme brûlées, caramel, coffee, & orange cardamon.

Fabulous Food and Fountains in Versailles

Last Saturday we had the pleasure of spending the day in Versailles beginning with a fabulous lunch at the newly opened restaurant, La Table du 11.  The chef, Jean-Baptiste LaVergne Morazzani, is only 23 years old and is a genius in the kitchen.  

We feasted on a mackerel and avocado salad and the most succulent, delicious farm raised chicken with white asparagus imaginable.  The white asparagus were cooked and shaved. 

Dessert was a mango and coconut dream and all of this was 35 euros!  

The musical fountains at Versailles after lunch were equally magical.  If you are in Paris this summer, I highly recommend you experience the musical fountains and Jean-Baptiste's cooking which is possible every Saturday.  In the fall, he and I will be doing a cooking class and lunch on a Monday with the restaurant is closed.  Stay tuned for more information!

L'Envie du Jour - Today's Desire!

Last Sunday I had the pleasure of spending the afternoon and evening with Chef Sergio Dias in his restaurant, L'Envie du Jour which loosely translated means, "what I desire or crave today"!  We arrived at 5pm and had the chef, his wife and his restaurant to ourselves until 9:30pm!

Together, 8 of us cooked 3 dishes: Shrimp, celery root, and orange geleé, fresh cod with confited fennel,endive and beets and lastly 2 types of crème brûleé, orange and coffee, all scrumptious.

And then, we had the pleasure of sitting down and enjoying the fruits of our labor with our talented and delightful chef, Sergio.  He is a master of everything but is especially good at cooking fish perfectly.  If you are in Paris, run on over to 106 rue Nollett and see for yourself.  At lunch, the special of the day with a glass of wine & coffee is only 16 euros!

The Many Faces & Colors of India

Meredith Mullins who was with me in India and, as you have already seen in my first four India blogs, takes fabulous photos of everything but especially people.  I really want to share with you more of the wonderful faces and colors of India, captured mostly by Meredith to whom this blog is dedicated.  You can see much more of her work on her website www.meredithmullins.artspan.com.

Enjoy & hope you can join me on the next adventure!